There are many classic images that have been taken by photojournalists using wide angle lenses and I am going to look at the reasons why.

A lot of keen photographers, when buying their next lens go for long telephoto lenses, as opposed to wide angle lenses; I think there are several reasons why they think they should go for longer lenses.

• A long lens will bring you closer to the action
• Restriction, not allowed close enough
• Confidence, it takes quite a lot of confidence to get in the action and put the camera in some ones face
• That pro look!

I feel that not being able to get close enough is no excuse to shoot with a wide angle lens; you just have to look for different perspective, thus getting unique images. Further, when using a long lens you inevitably need faster shutter speeds to eliminate camera shake and have to watch depth of field.

If you are being restricted from getting close, maybe your approach was wrong, in the past I used to have a press card and if I count the times this got me in to places would equate to absolutely none, it was never refused mind, it was my approach that got me in no one even asked for my press card. Normally relying on introductory phone calls or looking the part was enough, even today; no police man has asked if I have a press card!

Gaining confidence is another matter and it changes you when you use a wide angle lens, you are no longer a bystander on the edges, you become part of the event, action, disaster. I don’t think this is hard to achieve when you switch to a wide angle lens for the first time as the angles and dynamics sweep you away into its use, everything comes alive.

A wide angle lens is not just for getting everything in when there is little space or for photographing really big buildings, it’s an amazing view point on life!

The wide angle lens has many advantages, especially if it’s a prime lens.

• Short length and often light weight
• Has a reasonably fast aperture of f2.8 or greater
• Excellent depth of field
• Ability to use slow shutter speed in poor lighting conditions
• Has a short minimum focusing distance, which is great for getting unique perspective on objects or people
• Fast focus

Some of these advantages, also cross over to wide angle zoom lenses but tend to have poorer maximum aperture and don’t tend be great at minimum focusing distance.

f8 and be there!

In short, for fast action for when you are involved in the action they are great, when set to something in the region of f8, a good wide angle lens dose not even need to be focused and you can get close enough to smell the people as they tend to focus in the range of 7” to 12”. Perhaps the one downside you need to take care of is the horizontal plane, as you may find that a slight angle when holding the camera with a wide angle lens gives some strange results.

I am not saying that you should only use a wide angle lens exclusively, but use it, there will still be times when other longer lenses are needed to complete a range of scenarios and get the image you need.

Range of lenses

For comparison, this is what I used to carry in the old days when I did a lot of national newspaper work I used to have 2 camera bodies (Nikon F4s and an F3 with motor drive, the F3 was a favourite because it could be used without any batteries) a 24mm, a 85mm f1.4, for portraits and low light work and a 200mm £2.8, for times when I could not get close, this was backed up with a doubler (2x converter) and a Metz flash system. I also used to have a 50mm macro, mainly for copying photographs from relatives of someone who had just died. For sport I used a 300mm f2.8 (football) or longer (Cricket, Golf) but this was agency kit.

You can see my gear list on the left, the first thing you should note is it’s a dam site heavier.

 see also:

A Question of Style

The word “style” appears a lot in photography and we have to be clear of what style means in photojournalism, the difference between different photographic traits can appear to be very similar and yet be very far apart. There are many pictures that have the label documentary images, which to me is either a photograph without meaning or if you look at it, there was a person there who organised elements and objects to either appear or not in a particular way, “so its not documentary, but rather set up to appear in the style of documentary.”

Photojournalism is not about taking things and inventing something like photo illustration. We don’t create images of things that don’t exist; we are talking about the interpretation of things that do exist.

News images are different again and this can be confusing as many people view this as being the same as “photo-journalist.” Here the news photographer often needs a picture, which sums up the theme or event, to accompany a written article, in a single picture. A photographer like David Ashdown from the Independent captures some amazing images that reflect this. A news photographer may also be constrained by the picture editor requesting a vertical image, looking right (or other direction) so it fits with the layout and column spread (here there are pre-conceived ideas of what is wanted)

Many new photojournalists try to copy a style of a master, and this has its dangers as a style may work one day on an assignment and not work at all on the next. “It’s a bit like wearing an Armani suit to dig the garden, not very practical but can be done” So style should always be flexible. Style is akin to clothing in many ways; some times you need to be practical about your approach to the task in hand such as covering a conflict. It would be very dangerous trying to get the fighting action close up with a wide angle lens! (A wide angle lens in photojournalism is like a pair of jeans, plenty of it about) On other occasions it may be necessary to dress up for a special occasion too, especially when you know it can be done. Photojournalism, like fashion, needs to change with the times too and technology is also forcing this change on the photojournalist as well as the market of those who buy images.

Just as in fashion you have to allow your own style to come through and let it develop, don’t force it, and at the end of the day is why a picture editor gives “you” the assignment, “they like your style” and not a dozen of people who look like clones and shoot in the same way.

Your personality also has a lot to do with how you shoot and is parts of your style, some like to get close and know their subject really well, some get too close for comfort, while others take a more stand off approach. Additionally some people are into different scenes like Goths and Rockers and this alters their viewpoint and how they tackle an assignment.

You also need to avoid the latest fad clothing (style) at all costs as everyone is doing it and it is often short lived and images become out dated, very quickly as an example shooting like a paparazzi or voyeur, as there was great demand for celebrates going about there daily lives these started to become set up with photographer and celebrity!

Style tips for photojournalists

Try for images that are:

• Simple, clean in design
• Have clear message, strong impact
• Direct:- viewers eye goes straight to subject
• Gestures, filled with genuine emotion and interaction
• Clear body language that is easy to read

Avoid: (unless essential to the story)

• Cluttered, confused and busy
• Too detailed, burdened with info
• Unclear in centre of interest or point of view
• Contrived, artificial, stiff or posed
• Out of sync with topic in use of body language

Ask “is the photo active or passive?”

Options

1. Optech lens covers (commercial)
2. Kata covers (commercial)
3. Golf brolly
4. Do it yourself

The first two commercialy available options, I have never used but they would seem to work, but are costly

I have tried the golf brolly, didn't get on too well with it a slight wind and you take off, you have to be able to use a D2x with one hand and rain still seems to come in sideways

The last method of Do it yourself is cheap and works well for extended periods and dose not take up heaps of room in the camera bag, its light as well. The only downside can be condersation if you go from a warm room and out into a cold rainy day. Here's how

What You need

• One rubber band per camera/lens combo
• One clear polythen bag per camera /lens combo

A few tips before you start

I like good quality freezer bags that are a little on the thick side, not the ultra thin and noisey ones that you get.

Rubber bands that are quite wide are easyer to handle than thin ones, especialy when your fingers are cold and wet.

Fitting an appropriate sized zoom lens will stop the need for changing lenses in the rain, make sure you have a lens hood for it.

*Camera straps*

Lens hoods are realy needed for this, it helps the front from being struck by rain and allows you to secure the bag all the way up to the lens

 For a D2x with a 24-120mm zoom lens the bag I use measures 12" x!5"

For a point and shoot like the E5700 a bag 10"x12" with the lens hood fiteed works well

The down,  side no use of camera strap

Step 1

Open the Bag

Put in the camera with the back at the bottom of the bag and with the lens facing the opening

Step 2

Gather it up

pull the surples of polythene up under the lenshood

Step 3

Fasten

fasten the bag around the lens hood with the elastic band to keep out the water

job done , but you may need to practise this and experiment with different bags and bands!

In use

You should find that with a digital camera that all the push button functions are useable.

The viewfinder will be impaired slightly and this depends on the bag you use.

Zooms and zoom function on the lens is a little slower.

 Auto focus should still wotk, but works best with internal focus systems that don't rotate the front lens element and hood.

Condersation, as I have already said , going out from a warm room into a cold environment condensation can form and this is also true when comming from the cold and into a warm room! To deal with this allow the camera to climatise to the environment its going to be used in for at least half an hour.(this also works if you are taking pictures in a swimming pool and will stop the lens elements misting up)

If you still get condensation, or you have no chance but to go striaght outdoors from the "coffee shop," tearing a small hole in the bag, under the camera body or a corner of the bag and/or pulling the bag away from under the lens hood to allow air in will help reduce this, while climatising to the right tepreture. While in use make sure the bag hangs down at the front, so rain falls onto the floor and dosent run inside the bag.

And if it's still raining

make a feature of it, people sheltering hiding away, looking out of the window, rian splashing in the puddles. Go for it!

Photo Rucksacks

In use!

I leave my VR 24mm-120mm attached to my D2x body and put the lens in the midle lens pocket (with body attached) and the camera body lies accross the top making it easy to get out and ready to go at a moments notice, this also frees up one of the camera body storage pockets that has my flashgun gear in and sometimes shares a small compact video camera.

Bike it!

A photo rucksac is of course an ideal way to transport your gear if you are on a pedal cycle and this may be the only way to get to a sceen of a disaster, or some event has cuased gridlock in your city. It is likly to be the fastest way to get there too and the Stealth AW sits low enough to give a good low centre of gravity while on a bike when fully loaded up and i imagine good for traversing any dificult terain by foot as well

When the Kegwoth plane crash happened I took the bike from my home in Long Eaton to Kegworth,  all the roads were closed and maned by police and they didn't try to stop me, but my heavy billingham bag did give me grief as it kept shifting and it nearly had me off a couple of times. I reckon having a rear rack would laso be usefull for fastening rain gear to etc. but i need to experimant more with this.

Camara straps

Becuase of the extra weight of digital bodies, I have opted for a neoprean wide strap over the one that came with my D2x, after long hot days my neck would be sore from chaffing of the strap and I recomend you take a good look at yours, a comfortable strap can make a world of differance!

I generaly shorten it so I can get it over my head and shoulder, this way when the camera hangs, it sits under my arm pit which helps to protect it from rain and crowds etc. Make sure you can use the camera in both vertical and horizontal shooting modes. This under the arm carry is also good if you are scrambling in the hills as it protects it from swinging forward and hitting objects like fences or gates. The same method can be used under a waterproof in inclement weather, put the camera on first then the waterproof over the top

See also:

Lowepro Stealth Reporter 400AW